So, The Korean did a post to answer questions about black folks working in Korea. Granted, I've been here less than a year but I felt it was pretty much on point. I was a bit disappointed that the post descended from the topic at hand to something that some weird, trolly white guy wanted to talk about (the flaws of Korean nationalism) as it always does whenever a topic concerning black folks is brought up in a "non-black" forum. This same guy--as per the course--suggests that 'people of color' should avoid Korea in favor of China or Japan. Korea might be an awful place for a bunch of reasons but not in particular for being black...

Here's my full length response to the post since I only left a truncated version there:

[Can we delete all the 'angry white man' comments already?]

Back to the topic at hand...

Dear reader,
Have you been black all your life?

If you answered "Yes", to the above question, you are indeed prepared to face 'racism' in Korea!

What you will experience in Korea is not much different--and in my personal opinion--less annoying, than what you would experience in the United States. Unfortunately, guys like Scott are living and working in Korea, and they've brought all their baggage with them.

Still, unless you're from a multicultural mixing pot like SoCal, NYC or The Bay, you're probably used to guys like him. (Otherwise, you may want to read Expat Jane's post on Ugly Americans to get up to speed.) For the most part, racism isn't what you should be worried about, it's the culture clash you'll have with your employers that might wear you down...

If in fact you do speak a little Korean, people will probably look at you like you have two heads before they break into applause or something equally silly. I once exchanged names with a Korean guy at a club and spoke a few basic phrases (nice to meet you, etc.) and he flat out kissed me. Granted I think he had taken in a fair share of liquid courage before that...but you get the point. Korean Koreans are AMAZED that any non-Korean can speak the language at all. (Perhaps this is because of 'racialized thinking'.) So your efforts will not go unnoticed.

So basically being black, people will have it in the back of their heads that you can sing, dance, play basketball and maybe even rap. (Is that new?) I've been earnestly asked about all of the aforementioned except for rapping...and that was in New England! I'm far less annoyed with ignorant Koreans than ignorant white folks in the US because being in the US, there's no excuse. I don't like playing 'black ambassador' when I'm in my home country. Here, that's to be expected.

As for work options, I'm only aware of one black person in Korea who scored a pretty prominent position at a Korean company, Leslie Benfield who works for KOTRA doing editing. She's fully bilingual. She was on the 'Foreign Beauties' show for quite a while and was made a spokesperson for friendship with North Korea or something or other. At the same time, I've met an Indian guy out here who's an engineer and a Singaporean Chinese guy working in international shipping logistics. I'm not sure whether or not they're employed at Korean companies but those random jobs do exist for those who are qualified.

lol Yeochin to working on Saturdays. My school made up for it by asking me to do afterschool classes 4 days a week. Now that my fragile, American body is run down from 10 weeks of 11-hour days, everyone's freaking out over my "health." he he. Even though it sounded crazy to begin with, I was real cool about it when I first got here. One nasty flu and stomach ulcer symptoms later, I think they'll take my request for fewer hours more seriously next semester.

I won't sugarcoat the fact that more than one friend who works with young kids has had to endure "gorilla," "brown=poop," or "black=ugly" comments. (In none of the incidents was it directed towards the teacher.) At the same time, the little brats have been apologetic when confronted. I remind myself that this is coming from a country of kids who regularly call each other "monkey" and variations of poop are used as 'cute' pet names. Before the US elections, a friend asked one of her elementary students, "Why would you like John McCain to win the election?" to which he answered to her face, "Because I hate black people," and walked off. Well, hot damn! Was that kid raised by David Duke? Those moments do suck. Still, there's nothing about that mindset particularly unique to Korea. I'd more expect to hear something like that in the States.

As for me, when you're out here doing the expat thing, people always ask, "How long are you gonna stay?" At this point, my answer is as long as it's fun. As long as I find the idosyncracies of Korea amusing, it's worth me being this far away from home. When that seriously changes, I'm out. I wouldn't recommend raising brown babies here but neither would I recommend New England or the Deep South. So everything is absolutely relative. This is the piece of the globe I should be inhabiting at this time.
[This is another letter sent home...]
So, this is late October/November...

One nice thing about being in Seoul is not having to be badgered by Halloween.
I've never been much of a fan. I'm sure my distaste began courtesy of my fire-and-brimstone preschool/elementary school years but I can say with confidence it was sealed by face paint. I HATE face paint. I can't wear it. I remember inadvertently scratching through it as a kid and then the feeling of utter dismay specifically caused by ruining a $3 cat nose and whiskers that wouldn't be paid for twice... My face is hella sensitive. Cheap makeup and even some expensive makeup brushes cause my face to itch.

And the masks weren't any better. Do they still make those cheap masks with the eye slits that permit NO peripheral vision and have the extra thin elastic around the back? Oh, the 80's...Then there's the fact that I don't like candy. Not very much anyway. Do you know any other kids that still had Halloween candy left the next time Halloween came around? Probably not... And as a grown-up, the highlight of not feeling guilty about trick-or-treaters is definitely a plus. So yeah, not having to 'celebrate' Halloween was kinda cool.

Another thing I'm absolutely NOT missing is Daylight Savings Time. Who came up with that? There’s nothing nice about overriding the body’s naturally ability to prepare for winter!

In world news, I haven't met a Korean yet who was unhappy about Obama winning the election. It was weird being out of the country for such a historic election. I went down to little function thrown by Democrats Abroad and met a few other Americans who were really cool. On my way home election night I was stopped in the subway by a guy who looked about my age. He asked if I was American then told me, "Congratulations." And added something about Obama being "very good" for America then went on his merry way. It was quite cute. Little moments like that are always interesting. At the same time, if Obama sets limits on the Korean Free Trade Agreement I'll probably be fleeing the country. It's Korea's bread and butter and I have a feeling the reaction would a bit worse than the whole beef thing...

As far as film stuff, I finally got connected with my Act One mentor. He's a story analyst and he's done some stuff for Disney. I'm pretty psyched about having a pro look over my stuff, even if it does freak me out! I feel so...unworthy. lol. I'm sure it'll all be ok in the end but you know how sensitive we artists are. ;)

Also, in the building behind me, there's a girl who studied cinematography in the States. She moved out here a week after me and wants to shoot some stuff while she's here. We had dinner together a couple of weeks ago and I came up with a short film called, Chocolate Kimchi. I finished the first draft and am just waiting on notes from a few friends. Hopefully we'll shoot in Jan/Feb during our schools' winter breaks. I've met a few other artists out here. A girl at the Democrats thing is a documentarian from the States working on a project out here for a couple of months. One of the other guys there is a photographer working on a book. The leader of my Bible study at church worked in set design for 10 years in Toronto before moving to Seoul and another girl in our study was a production assistant back in LA before moving out here. I'm excited about putting some stuff together, especially being able to exploit some of the unique scenery and situations out here in Asia. Who knows what will come together...

Thanksgiving out here consisted of my usually-long workday, and a 1-hr train ride to have dinner with friends across town. A couple at my friend’s church definitely has the gift of hospitality. There were about 20 people at their apartment when I arrived! I really needed that fellowship time. I hadn’t been homesick until I did my lesson plan on Thanksgiving. I was in the middle of teaching one day when it hit, which sucked pretty hard. It’s also worth mentioning that Christmas is basically a supped-up Valentine’s Day out here. One of my student’s answer to, “Why is Christmas your favorite holiday?” was “Because I can go on a date with my boyfriend!” *sigh* We have Thursday off but have to go back into work on Friday. I’m still debating if I’ll be “sick.” lol.

A few of you might be interested to know I visited the EveryNation church in Seoul the Sunday after Thanksgiving. I’ll shamelessly admit it was at the invite of another teacher who mentioned they were hosting a Thanksgiving dinner. It was good that we went with someone who had already been there because I don’t know that I would have found it by myself. The service was in both Korean and English. I met a quite a few South Africans and a boy from Nashville (born and raised at that!). The SAs and I got into a rather convoluted discussion about what it means to be ‘colored’ as opposed to ‘black’. I quite prefer the American style of categorizing people by appearance. It’s shallow but quite a bit less confusing.

In an effort to enjoy the westside of town where I live, some friends and I went out to a little club in our area to see Crown J perform. (Why yes, he is the aforementioned face of FUBU Korea.) The show was entertaining. He only did five songs but it was interesting being in such a Korean club. Usually, where we go out there are lots of other non-Koreans. This time, I only saw one other ‘foreigner’. All the DJs were dancers. It was quite fascinating. They would put on a song, hype it up on the mic, and then bust a move! No joke they were doing total pop-star choreography. I hope they got paid extra for that…

I’ve been working on a little list of Korea pros and cons:
Things that are awesome:
- Korean fried chicken
I don’t know how they do it, but it’s ALWAYS crispy!
- street food!
I love to eat while I walk. (Classy, I know.) Multitasking makes me feel good. In Seoul, somebody’s selling something in every nook and cranny. In fact, I suppose it’s possible to eat constantly while walking from one location to another…
- cheap restaurants
I’ll get off food in a second…eating Korean food is fairly cheap here. I can get a fresh cooked meal for $5 or $6 bucks…downstairs. There’s restaurants on the first floor of my building. Why should I cook in my tiny excuse for a bedroom when I can feed myself “for less than $10 a day…”
- living in a major metro
Many of the people I meet here are well-traveled through one means or another. I’ve also been meeting quite a few polyglots <----word for the week. Also, I like the randomness of the really big open markets like Namdaemun. It has a feel somewhere between China and New York. People are always rolling up carts and unloading stuff for sale. (Including the Louis Vuitton bag I plan to buy before I leave.) Come back in a few hours and they’re gone. Lol. - public transportation
As much as driving is cool, having the option of not driving is even cooler.
- being mistaken for ‘important’
I know, I know. Those of you who truly love me are thinking, but you are important! Thank you. I appreciate your concern for my self-esteem... In another update I mentioned being mistakenly ushered into the VIP line at Fashion Week. At the Crown J show, the DJ stopped to ask me and only me, “Where are you from?” Hilarious! Does it really matter? Carry on please... I’ve been personally congratulated for Obama’s win, interviewed by college students and photographed for some girl’s ‘street fashion’ project, none of which would happen in the States.

Things I miss:
- sweet potato pie
Dream on dreamer, dream on. You can’t get one north of the Mason-Dixon or west of the Mississippi either…
- cotton balls
I assure you, you won't miss them until you can't get them. Anywhere.
- my hair dryer
How am I supposed to do a deep conditioning or roller set, huh? Huh? I’ve only seen two salons in three months that even have dome style driers.
- Paul Mitchell
If you were unawares, Mr. Mitchell makes some of the best hair products ever…
- Mexican & Thai food!
Dear God, I traveled 45 minutes across town for a $19 enchilada combo plate. Tip not included. I never realized how food-spoiled I am until now…
- having a car
It’s not that I want to drive in Seoul (it’s absolute madness out here) but it’d be nice to have the option on weekends when I’m high-tailing it to the last train at 1230pm to get back to the boondocks where I live…
- products with cocoa butter
And all the brown people said, “Amen.”

And of course, I miss you guys!

I’m not looking forward to Seoul’s harsh winter but hopefully, I’ll be getting some good snowboarding in!

Love and hugs,
-t.
I’m trying to remember why in the world I haven’t blogged about the goofy night I had when I went to see Epik High last month. Can’t think of a good reason, so here goes…

The band was playing at a little place called CatchLight down in Hongdae. We got there around 930—FAR too early for a club in Seoul—which meant we had to wait outside until they actually opened the club around 1030 or so.

Problem #1. While standing in line to get into the club, I saw two of my students! Can I get a “damn?!” Is that not every teacher’s nightmare? Fortunately, neither of my companions was sippin’ on soju, which on so many other occasions has been the case…

Problem #2. Because of the line that formed around the club, we were a little worried about being able to get in. The girls I came with had a hook up for free entry through a club rat they had met a week or so before. Sensibly, I wanted to wait and see what her powers of persuasion were before paying $15 but after repeated prodding from the other two, I paid to get in. Thirty minutes later when the “friend” arrives, security waves me past and offers a hand stamp…but I’ve already paid. *boo*

In Seoul, night goes into the morning since the clubs don’t ever really close which means that in the interest of business, main artists don’t start playing until around 1230 or later. That being the case, I experienced several bouts of boredom with a little dancing in between. The girls I came with like to drink. One of them is the girl you see at parties walking around and talking illogically who will also try to argue you down when you tell her she’s drunk and doesn’t make sense. The other is the type that constantly makes you ask, “Is she drunk?” because you’re never really quite sure if it’s her or the alcohol talking. Our hostess for the evening—Club Rat—was a cute Korean girl who had spent some years living in the States. She’s one of those party girls who lives for male attention and is more than willing to flaunt herself to get it. Alcohol only enables her madness.

The situation was compromised on so many levels…

First of all, I would like to acknowledge all the wannbe thugs in Korea. They are far too plentiful in Seoul. Interestingly enough, Epik High is far more a pop-hop band than hip-hop. (I mean, come on guys. They rap over techno!) Still, their concert attracted a couple of dudes in sideways baseball caps and bandanas around their necks. WTH? Do not get it twisted. These fellas know all the words to the rap songs (but don’t speak English). And they’ll throw a Westside up in a hot minute.

So up until the performance, the little bit of dancing I did do was remarkably engaging for said thugs. I’m not one for the limelight so I found the extra attention when I and “the other black girl” (my friend) hit the dance floor was a little annoying.

Problem #3 A friend called. He was across town but had promised to come hang out in Hongdae. So I'm waiting for this fool to show up and he's still having a good time across town. In the process, I miss the magic moment when my companions are whisked upstairs to meet the band. *BOOOOO* I'm not a total groupie (in this case anyway). I'm mostly intrigued by the frontman's Masters in Creative Writing from Standford. I mean, seriously, Can we be friends? I also read in an interview where he said he wished he had studied film instead/in addition? to what he's doing presently. *sigh*

Somewhere in the wee hours of the morning after said friend had come and gone--I think it was about 4 a.m.--my feet were KILLING me. I only wore 1" heels but I had been on them for about 8 hours at that point. The club had a few tables downstairs near the bar in the non-VIP area so I decided to plop my grown behind down to wait for the kids to be ready to leave.

A few minutes pass and I put my feet up in the seat opposite me. At this point I should mention that I had just been to the salon the day before and gotten a touch up and black rinse. My hair was looking silky smooth and jet black. (Just how I like it!) That being the case, about 10 minutes after I had gotten comfy, some guy walks up to me from behind, puts his hands on my shoulders and leans in so his tummy is resting on my head. I'm like, WTH?!? I leaned my head back with my best WTH? expression plastered across my face. Dear God, the look on that dude's face was priceless!!! He was all, "Oh, soree! Soree!" He said his friend had been there. I couldn't help but laugh. Dude was hella awkward!

So, lo and behold 10-minutes later, the same shiznit happens! A dude rolls up from behind and does the hands on the shoulder thing. I offer the same WTH? expression. He looks genuinely shocked in the way that slightly drunk people are when things don't go quite right. Dude is like, "Soree. Soree." Then dude flips the script, "Beautiful! Beautiful!" At this point, I was EXTREMELY ready to go. As I'm pulling out my phone to see where my girls are. How about this fool grabs my phone and calls himself while I'm beating him on the arm and trying to get my phone back!!!! *straight foolishness!* He looked so proud of himself too...

At this point I stand up from the chair and make a fatal mistake. I ask, "And who ARE you?" in my most sarcastic tone. *Note to self: sarcasm does NOT translate.* Dude says his name, I have no idea what he says. I give a weak smile and say nice to meet you as I attempt to walk off. (Note the word "attempt.") After that, it's, "Beautiful! Beautiful" and then, I got MOUTHED! (Note the word "mouthed.") It would be improper to use the word "kiss" as that has romantic connotations and alludes to a level of technique that was not employed in said action. That was my third, WTH?!? of the evening which should probably be upgraded to a WTF?!? Dude then proceeded to lock me into a rib crushing (no joke) bear hug after which I believe he was expecting another mouthing. I don't even think I said anything though I'm quite sure I had my completely horrified face on in full effect. I was trying to push him away but he wasn't getting the point. Maybe he imagined I was moving my hand toward his neck for a romantic embrace. Actually, I was going for his trachea. The trachea is always effective when a normal push doesn't quite communicate the desired meaning. He finally got the point.

I was super extremely ready to go at that point...

Fortunately, that particular evening didn't have any more bootlegness worth describing. Well, there were a couple more niggling details but I don't have the energy to recount them.

I suppose I'm just trying to figure out why it is that random dudes will seriously think that exchanging names is enough to think they deserve some lovin'!

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